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You could probably monitor B+ at the horizontal output tube plate cap since you have the tube out of circuit. Otherwise that's one location we are told to never measure voltage at due to the high pulse peak voltage.

The term for those phone stabilizer thingies to throw at your favorite bay or jungle site is "gimbal" btw. The DJI osmo line is very common, but apparently those break pretty easily

You could probably flip the set and pull the metal cover underneath to get at most of the chassis before you pull the whole chassis but everyone did what they wanted. I remember most of the the tube sets I had, especially the Zeniths, had a cover underneath. I worked on hybrid and solid state as things progressed. I did play with a few radios and some earlier b/w sets when I could find them.

Bob, this GE chassis is a carbon copy of the RCA design. As you discovered, there are no plugs to disconnect the tuners and front panel controls. On the RCA chassis, there is a mounting location for the tuner assembly on the rear of the chassis by the power transformer. I didn't see any type of chassis mounting on that GE. Yeah unfortunately, any kind of bottom chassis access means you have to pull the chassis, no bottom chassis access is built into the cabinet. The probable lack of B+ could also be caused by the degaussing thermistor opening up. Also, depending upon the degaussing circuit used, if the thermistor opens, it will route all the power supply current through the degaussing coil and simultaneously burn up the VDR (Voltage Dependant Resistor). It is obvious when the thermistor opens; there will be a visible separation between one of the component leads and the thermistor body. Also check to see if the degausser is plugged in. Those circuit breakers had a high failure rate. They are a simple, super cheap thermal breaker. These power supplies with the voltage doubler have really high 60 Hz peak currents. About 5 years later RCA went with a bridge rectifier. So, when you fix the B+, you will need to repeat the slow power-up. While doing the initial power-up, it wouldn't hurt to have a several hundred watt bulb in series with the set just in case something decides to hard short. The Horizontal Output cathode current monitor is a great idea! I don't really see the need to do the initial power-up with the Horizontal Output Tube removed, just watch your cathode current. When powering up the set again, make sure the deflection yoke is connected (it wasn't connected in the video). I haven't proven this but, the deflection yoke provides a necessary load to the Horizontal and Vertical outputs, damage may occur with the yoke disconnected. Your first video of this set, told me the back had probably never been off before. The first thing most TV Techs would do when servicing a set, was to toss all but 2 back screws. That wire from the Blue Lateral Magnet needs to be connected to chassis ground to dissipate static electricity buildup.

That certainly sounds like something GE would do, with the hardwiring of the controls to the chassis. The bean counters' agenda apparently won over quality and serviceability.

That set brings back memories. The RCA also. I don't remember how many 21FJP22 CRT's I replaced back then. If you need some of the HOT tubes let me know. I likely still have a box of tested used ones and maybe a few NOS left. One hazard of touching the filter caps is some were isolated from the chassis on phenolic plates. Sometimes touching a couple of of the cans at the same time gave you a really rude shock. I still have a lot of NOS circuit breakers and many chemical fuses if you need any.

You still seem to have that fox problem in the shop. I noticed one last time...

Whats the deal with us camo pants guys. Just fashion whores I guess. Tee's and a converse go to go... we got shi/things to do.

The GE set is a CTC 15 clone. Probably 64 or 65. The RCA set with no UHF tuner was likely a 63 model. The RCA could be a CTC 13 chassis. The degaussing usually didn't affect convergence much (although it could). The degaussing affected the color purity. A black and white image would have an odd color patch on the edges of the picture. It means the electron beam is hitting the wrong phosphor on the face of the tube. It is caused by the metal shadow mask becoming magnetized. It would have to be WAY off to affect convergence. IE: the purity rings and yoke out of place.

Great to make it the finish final. Loved this whole adventure and sure enjoyed more than you can imagine, next to being able to own one and fix it. Lucky you. Thanks so much for allowing me to part of you restorations I am grateful and very in-debt to you kindness thanks Mike

Compare, both chassii near identical. The GE is a RCA clone.

Some sets had a circuit modification that will throw the horizontal oscillator off frequency to the high side if there is excessive HV or if the regulator tube fails. This was to limit X-ray exposure. I don't remember which chassis' had that implemented

UHF mandate was March 1964 IIRC. Just US sold sets. LFOD !

The circuit breakers on those sets would sometimes get weak and trip prematurely. The 2nd anode runs at 25kV, focus is 5kv and the boost b+ was around 1000V. The ring shaped magnet on the CRT neck is the purity magnet the other magnet is the blue lateral position magnet. Last 21fjp22 that I touched was in 1979, was a rebuilt unit and had an open anode button fault, likely caused by a HV arc. Flyback failures were common in late summer when people returned from vacation ant turned on the TV - The flyback absorbed moisture while turned off in the summer humidity. These use a 3A3 hv rectifier instead of the 1B3. HV rectifier socket failures were not uncommon. Look also for green crustys on wires running across the circuit boards, i've found open wires that way. The thermistor and MOV in the degauss circuit are prone to failure.

Now that the pix tubes check out what is next? Regular tubes being check. Then a slow power up?

I think Shango would use a dim bulb and power it up slowly but take the HV Rect removed to make the tubes glow and then put the HV rect. I understand no B+ with no rect tube. but it would give you some ideal what you're dealing with. but check the caps if they get hot. also Horizontal tube make sure it doesn't red plate.

Nice examples of early 60's color TV's Bob. Fingers crossed that they may only need new pix tubes at the most.

The red cathode generally wears out first because the red phosphor is dim relative to the others thus it has to be driven harder. Watch out for the shunt regulator tube as these can put off X-rays. The glue bonding the implosion screen to the faceplate is usually PVA, and can be dissolved (slowly) with water. Interestingly in the UK we had CRT's that were both Aluminised and had an ion trap.

Vi el video del philco final,y me preguntaba que hace luego;los pone a la venta o conserva.///7-09-24///.!!!

RE: Color Killer. This is a threshold adjustment where the color burst level is monitored and if it is missing or falls below an acceptable level, the chroma demodulators are shut down. A too weak color burst would result in unlocked color with a full screen rainbow floating across a B&W image. The color killer is also to shut down the chroma sections when a B&W program is being received. I worked at a UHF TV station in the early 1980s where a lot of B&W 1960s sitcoms were broadcast in the afternoon. It was actually an FCC violation to transmit the color burst on a B&W program. If the burst was present, the TV receiver's chroma section would induce color snow and rainbows in the B&W image.

Bob, I was given a non-working CT-100 Merrill in 1965. I called RCA and they mailed the complete service manual (still have it). It had a shorted green cathode on the 15GP22, and no color. It took about 8 months, but using typical techniques around in those days, I removed the internal cathode short, and the long part - restored color to the set. Johnny Carson in color! Now THAT was cool. I was 16 years old at that time and learned everything about color tv in order to fix the set.

Nice to spend 35 minutes with you thanks.

Have you repaired tv sets from 70s to 80s? Color sets, Trinitron sets as well.

That's mom's tv's, guess it's appropriate I got diagnosed with a cataract this year too! LOL. I would love to see these running when you get to it. My brother was your contact and this video is a fair representation of events. We lost my dad in the early 80's so that's why things didn't change. She's now 92 years old and with me and has gone through a lot in her life, I'll take the time-capsule...they're memories.

When you looked in the back, I though I saw Doug there for a moment. Remember DRH4683

Hi Do you ever restore these and sell them? I been looking for a color roundie from 1959-1964 for my vintage req room Let me know if be interested in buying one

oh i'd like to see a full restore of a colour crt, it's too bad the safety thing on the front of these old crt's goes bad.

Very neat installation of the components, looks great.

Bob,I was wondering if you were able to work out getting that Sylhouette? Hope you finally got one. Are these color roundies going to be keepers? I liked that Zenith you had. These are nice too

It's so fascinating seeing them and finding out about the screen shape. Being in Australia, we didn't get colour TV until 1975 so we had square screen black and white sets when these ones were new. Because we saw so many American TV shows in Australia, all the favourites, I always wondered why the screens on the colour TVs had curved sides. Now I know. They look like every TV I ever saw in all those shows from the 60s. America looked so glamorous to me and everyone looked wealthy. Isn't TV wonderful. 😊👍

They sure weight a ton but dam old tv's are just a work of art.

The Ge was definetly a little cheaper than the rca. I didnt expect the speaker to be that tiny either. These sets go to show you that a high percentage of buyers didnt elect for the danish modern look.

That thing is cool. Nice work

Bob iam glad to see you work on the sets that I used to work on you will have fun the flyback had issues in these sets I used to take out the 1b3 and cut the regulator wires and put in an ecg 508 good luck

I changed lots of tube and glad reconverted many TV's back in the 90s

I remember an old TV like that when I was a kid in the hospital, but it had a wired pendant. 1970.

I'm sure these videos will be very interesting, Bob, and I'll be watching them faithfully!

You may want to talk to Shango about his opinion on rewaxing the flyback as preventive step after completing the restoration. With all the effort you usually put in, it could be worth that extra mile. Yes, you can use Corona dope or RTV silicone on the outside of the donut, but that wax dripping out was also providing insulation and even more so protection from moisture ingress to the layer insulation to the windings inside the "donut". And even if you do not pull vacuum like shango did on his "Rewaxing Flyback Transformer" video 12 years ago, you may use the wax bath to heat the flyback to where it drives out any moisture present while not losing more wax. Which gives rise to another train of thought; given the time the sets were not operated, maybe it would be a good idea to slowly bake the flyback or "hot air" it before any power up, in order to drive out any moisture inside, before the HV winding gets the chance to arc out and carbon track inbetween winding layers, where you cannot fix it. Also in shango's video it was mentioned that heating the flyback "in situ" by means of passing a few Milliamps of current thru the donut may provide a means of "cooking out" moisture.

Good to see both CRT's test OK, a couple of tips, you can get a good idea how good a CRT is without hooking up a tester. 1) check the RGB pot positions, if one or more are fully clockwise indicates the tube is weak. 2) look at the guns in the CRT base, if obviously blue or darkened, it shows it is a high hour CRT. I would not be too concerned about the flyback TX's, I have seen worse that work just fine, it is wise to fit a small computer fan to cool the flyback in any set that is going to get regularly used. Looks like both set's should be good candidates for restoration.

Shango checks the red green blue level pots on the back of the chassis to see how far they're turned up. He had experienced difficulty adjusting the convergence on these sets. Forgot which is which, but he showed there are two places where the convergence is adjusted, static and dynamic -- on the board of pots/adjustable ferrite inductors mounted to the inside top of the cabinet as well as on the yoke. Shango installed one of those little computer fans inside the flyback cage of a color set in a video to keep the transformer cool. I thought that was a pretty smart idea.

Shango-mango,takes two color roundies to tango. Bob will twinko-bromulate,the glasstastic lense to a crystal clearious state. With gromulous care,and shangulous grace,well soon see these sets showing lost in space.

Shango is a veteran and master at removing those bonded lenses! He said the bonding agen turns to jelly and can be quite fragrant,the fumes producing staggering,mind blowing hallucinations that aid in the viewing experince.

Now is the time for you to get,an rca victor color set,easy to tune as it can be,perfect for black and white tv....Wow! I saw color tv!

I believe a bill was passed in 1962 that Uhf become mandatory on all sets by 1964

If you're going to do more color sets get a Beltron CRT rejuvenater and it does all of the critical stuff, especially if you get all the socket adapters. You can see all three guns at once and it has a cleaning function that tends to not cook the guns if you're gentle. I think the Heathkit versions are very similar and easy to find. You can get even better ones but how much money do you want to spend. The last Beltron I got from ebay had been updated and modified to do more tubes and had all the extra sockets and updated instructions for everything for 25 shipped. I used it a couple of times and recently found it in the loft of my shed. Maybe you can still find one cheap I kept a saved search for things I wanted and got a few deals.